Gnocchi 103 - Deep Gnocchi

Grumento Nova is a little town in the southern Italy, built on the site of the Roman settlement of Grumentum, thus the name Grumento Nova. As for Grumento Nova the gnocchi, one must assume it is somehow associated with the town, or one of its 1,839 residents, 39.4% of whom share the surname, Caputi. Exactly how, I couldn't say.

Grumento Nova gnocchi is the proverbial Ugly Duckling of gnocchi, irregularly shaped lumps of dough that look more suitable for throwing at the dogs than eating. But do not be deceived, bathed in butter and kissed with sage and truffles, it becomes the most sophisticated comfort food imaginable; "toothsome" without being chewy, distinctly flavored but not overpowering, and sinfully rich. Because it is so "big" and filling, I recommend serving it as a side dish rather than the main course. It's the perfect companion for a roast pork loin, for instance.

This is serious gnocchi for the serious gnocchi lover, and proof that delicious things do not always look as good as they taste. (Consider the truffle, for instance. I mean, who would've thought?) The truffles in the brown butter-sage sauce are optional, but I recommend them highly. If you can get them, use them. If not, order them on-line and use them next time.

Try this dish. If you don't like it, I'll come over and take it off your hands.

GRUMENTO NOVA GNOCCHI
(8 servings)

3 eggs
3/4 cup Parmesan-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
Dash of black pepper
Pinch of kosher salt
2 cups milk (or more)
2 pounds all-purpose flour

Mix first five ingredients together in a large bowl.

Gradually add milk, alternating with the flour. Mix together until the mixture is the consistency of a VERY thick pancake batter.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest of 5 minutes.

Prepare a large pot of generously salted boiling water. Use a tablespoon or a small scoop, (I recommend a melon ball or very small ice cream scoop with a mechanical release), drop lumps of dough into the pot one at a time. (If the dough is sticking to the spoon, dip the spoon in a glass of warm water to continue. Another reason to use a scoop with a release feature.) Be careful not to overcrowd the pot. (The dough will not, repeat, will not, be little round balls, but rather irregularly formed lumps. Deal with it.)

Cook the gnocchi for 5 minutes. Drain and serve with brown butter-sage sauce.

If you are going to freeze some of this gnocchi, cook it for 4 minutes. Then, after it has defrosted, dunk it in the boiling, salted water for 1 minute to warm and complete cooking.


BROWN BUTTER SAGE SAUCE
(4 servings -- double for 8 servings)

1/2 pound (1 stick) Unsalted butter
3 Tablespoons Fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
1 Black truffle, shaved (or use dried truffles) -- Optional
Salt and black pepper to taste

Heat butter in a large (11 or 12-inch) skillet, without stirring, until the butter stops foaming and turns a light brown.

Add sage, truffle (optional) and salt and pepper to taste. (If using dried truffles, place about 3 tablespoons in a bowl and soak in hot water for at least a half hour before using.)

Add gnocchi to pan and shake and stir to just coat with butter mixture.

Remove from heat and serve. Sublime.