Gumbo, Not Ya Ya

Some of you may already know that I collect community cookbooks, (OK, it's an addiction. I need help.), and although I've never met a Junior League, Methodist Church or Woman's Club cookbook I didn't want to hug and take home, I'll be the first to tell you, they're often more of an amusement than a useful part of my personal cook's library, (one entire Ikea "Billy" bookcase, and two shelves of another, with no room to grow).

With a few rare exceptions, I just read them -- savoring every word, mind you, but never actually making any of the recipes therein. But then there are those few gems, some well-known, some obscure, that have become my go-to books whenever I'm looking for special something -- usually a regional or childhood favorite -- with real down home flavor and not a lot of attitude.
When my French/Cajun/Irish husband mentioned that when he was a child his family always had Gumbo for Christmas dinner, (hint, hint), I turned to River Road Recipes, Vol. 1, the self-proclaimed Textbook of Louisiana Cuisine, first published in 1959 by the Junior League of Baton Rouge, (I have the 1988 sixty-fourth printing), and found just what I was looking for; a sophisticated, yet traditional, Creole style seafood gumbo that's easy to make, can be dressed up or down as the occasion requires, and is absolutely delicious.

Unfortunately the recipe is uncredited, but I'd like to send a shout out to the Baton Rouge Junior Leaguer who contributed it, along with my apologies for leaving out the oysters, one of the few foods on God's earth that I won't go out of my way to eat, (with the possible exception of the fried oysters at Acme Oyster House in New Orleans). Feel free to add a pint along with the crab meat and shrimp if you'd like, but if I'm invited for dinner, don't be offended if I pick them out with a spoon.

SHRIMP & CRAB GUMBO
(6 to 8 servings)

3 tablespoons cooking oil
3 tablespoons plain flour
1 pound shrimp - peeled and deveined
1 pound lump crab meat
2 tablespoons cooking oil
3 cups okra (fresh, frozen or canned)
1 large sweet onion, chopped
1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 quart chicken stock
1 quart water
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Dash cayenne pepper (to taste)

Make a dark roux of 3 tablespoons cooking oil and 3 tablespoons flour: Heat oil in a large skillet, sprinkle in flour, stir until well blended. Continue to stir constantly as flour cooks in oil until the roux is the color of brown sugar.

Add shrimp to the roux and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are no longer pink. (Note: The shrimp will absorb much of the roux.) Sit aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons cooking oil in a large saucepan or soup pot. Add onions and okra and smother until nearly tender. Add tomatoes and stir to mix.

Add chicken broth and water. (NOTE: Seafood stock made from the shrimp shells -- see my recipe for Shrimp Creole -- makes a great substitute for the chicken broth if you have the time and inclination.) Add the bay leaf, garlic, salt and cayenne pepper. Bring to a gentle boil.

Add the shrimp and roux. Add the crab meat. Turn heat to low. Cover and cook slowly for about 1 hour. (Note: This one of those dishes that is even better cooked the day before and re-heated before serving.)

Serve with white rice. (Or not, it's a wonderful dish, with or without the rice.)