Love at First Blush

In desperate need of some sweetness to leaven a week of bitter political rhetoric and soul-sucking seasonal melancholy, I decided to make jam. I had to really. It was either that or break out the Prozac and vodka, and I didn't need a prescription for sugar.

End of the season peaches at 99 cents a pound settled the question as to what kind. Undoubtedly grown in Mexico, they were hard as rocks and, I would soon discover, not even freestone. They would, however, most certainly do in a jam. (I’m feeling more puckish already.)

All of the preserved peach preparations in my cookbooks bored me like Sunday school. I needed something a little dangerous. A taste of something slightly strange. The scent of romance.

I found what I was looking for on the internet, (would that it were always so simple): peach jam with the tender tang of raspberries and a kiss of culinary lavender.

This is a sexy jam.

And so good it will make you blush.

BLUSHING PEACH-LAVENDER JAM

 (yields about 12 half-pint jars)

2 tablespoons culinary lavender buds

9 cups peaches, peeled, pitted and chopped

3 cups fresh raspberries

8 cups white granulated sugar

3/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 (3 ounce) envelopes liquid fruit pectin

Ideally the peaches should be just ripe but still firm. Despite my preference for working with the freestone variety, the best peach for this jam is a yellow cling, which has more sugar; all the better to make it gel.

Still, this recipe needs a little help. Though some purists eschew it, when used appropriately, fruit pectin is your friend. Think of it as Viagra for jam. Use only as much as you need and be aware that liquid and powdered pectins are not interchangeable for substitution. If it says 'liquid pectin,' use liquid pectin.

While preparing the peaches, steep the lavender buds in 1 cup of boiling water. (I use a tea ball so straining isn't necessary.)

Combine peaches, raspberries, lemon juice and sugar in a large pot. Stir to combine. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.  Reduce to a slow boil and cook until liquid is reduced to a syrupy consistency. Stir frequently and mash the fruit as it begins to soften. (Or, give it a couple of spins with the immersion blender, but not too many if you like chucks of fruit in your jam.) Cooking time will vary depending on the ripeness of the peaches, roughly 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

Stir in 2/3 cup of the lavender water and the fruit pectin. Bring back to a boil and cook for another 15 minutes, stirring frequently, or until syrup is thick and fruit is tender and partially dissolved.

Remove from heat. Skim foam if necessary.

Ladle hot jam into prepared, sterilized jars, leaving 1/4-inch space at the top. Cap and process 10 minutes in boiling water. (Click here for complete canning instructions.)

Delicious with biscuits, scones, crackers, cheeses, just about anything you want to put it on; and so seductive you may want to enjoy it in private. It's a little like falling in love, but much less complicated.