New Orleans Shrimp Creole

We make it down to New Orleans every few years, ostensibly for Jazz Fest, but the real reason I go is to eat. And while you'll find some stellar New Orleans dishes at the Festival, (I'm partial to the Crawfish Monica and Cochon de Lait po' boys), one should never travel to the Crescent City without at least one meal (but better two or three) at one of the old-line French Creole restaurants. My favorites are Antoine's, for Filet de truite au vin blanc and Pommes de terre souffles, Arnaud's, for turtle soup and crab cakes, and Galatoire's for oysters en brochette and their sublime Shrimp Creole which is, quite simply, the best in town, any town.

Creole cooking, not to be confused with Cajun cooking, New Orleans' other signature cuisine, initially evolved from French techniques and recipes blended with elements from the culinary traditions of the Spanish, African and Italians who also settled in the city. Creole food is typically milder in flavor than it's Cajun country cousin, and more complicated in preparation, and therefore generally thought of as more refined.

Although both styles of cooking often feature the "holy trinity" of celery, bell peppers and onion as primary ingredients, the Cajuns, who trace their heritage to the Acadian French, (the word Cajun is a corruption of the word Acadian), and settled in the bayou country after their expulsion from Nova Scotia, typically rely on game meats and heavy spices, to create their earthy "country" dishes. The latter cooking style was most notably popularized by Chef Paul Prudhomme, and his New Orleans restaurant K-Paul's is the place to be if you have a hankering for blackened anything.

But if it's a piquant, tomato rich, silky smooth sauce brimming with fresh shrimp you're craving, then sit yourself down to a plate of Galatoire's Shrimp Creole. Can't make it to New Orleans? Then make it yourself. Last time we were there, my husband bought me the Galatoire's Cookbook, and the recipe therein will turn out fine as is. However, even though I thought it was impossible to improve on perfection, I think I have done just that, adding my own tweaks and twists, little adjustments here and there, for what I believe is the perfect, perfect Shrimp Creole. Here it is.


SHRIMP CREOLE

5 large firm, ripe tomatoes
3 tablespoons salted butter
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, diced
1 large sweet onion, diced
1 6-ounce can tomato paste
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (more or less to taste)
1 teaspoon paprika
4 cups shrimp stock (recipe follows)
1 3/4 pounds medium shrimp (25 to 30 count), peeled and de-veined, tails removed
1/4 cup chopped parsley for garnish
Steamed white rice for 6


SHRIMP STOCK

1 3/4 to 2 pounds fresh shrimp shells and tails
1 large sweet onion, quartered
3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
10 to 20 black peppercorns, crushed
1 lemon, halved
1 gallon water
Peel and de-vein shrimp. Reserve shells for stock.

To make stock, place all stock ingredients in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heart to a low boil and simmer for one hour, skimming foam as necessary. Strain the stock and discard the solids.

NOTE: Stock can be made the day before and makes enough for three recipes of Shrimp Creole. I freeze the remainder of the stock in two batches for later use so I don’t have to make it each time I prepare the dish.

Bring about two quarts of water to boil in a large saucepan. Score the bottom of each tomato with a small “x” and blanch them in the water for about a minute or until the skin breaks.
Drain, cool and pull off the skin. Seed and dice. (To make seeding easier I use a grapefruit spoon to scoop out the seeds. A melon baller will work well too.)
Melt the butter in a large pot over high heat. Add the celery, bell peppers, onion and tomatoes and sauté for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and the tomatoes begin to dissolve.
Reduce heat to medium, Add tomato paste, bay leaves, salt, cayenne pepper and paprika. Simmer for 4 or 5 minutes to mix flavors then add shrimp stock.

Simmer the mixture over medium heart for 30 minutes, until sauce is slightly thickened.

NOTE: Sauce can be made a day before, refrigerated and reheated for the addition of the shrimp.

Add shrimp and simmer for an additional 10 minutes until shrimp are pink and cooked through. (Careful not to overcook or shrimp will be tough and rubbery.)

Garnish with parsley and serve over steamed rice. Serves 6.