Tuesday, September 15, 2009

"That" Boeuf Bourguignon

You knew I'd have to do it -- make Julia Child's Boeuf Bourguignon. Once I saw the movie, Julie and Julia, it was inevitable. Either that or Pate De Canard En Croute, and I'm sure as hell not boning a duck. I'm not chopping a beef roast into little cubes either for that matter, not as long as there's a butcher or supermarket to do it for me, but if one has to make something from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, (and I did), Boeuf Bourguignon seems a good place to start.
Hey basically it's a beef stew, all right. A fancy and refined beef stew to be sure, but stew all the same. (OK, Julia would have me modify that to say that, strictly speaking, Boeuf Bourguignon is a fricassee, which is the term used to label any preparation in which the meat is browned before it is simmered. Got it?) And unlike other beef stews where you just throw everything into one pot and put it on the stove, THIS beef stew is an invitation to mess up every pot, pan and utensil in the kitchen. Is is worth it? I dunno. It is pretty darn delicious, and I'd say for an occasion you might want to go for it.

It's a lot of trouble, and time consuming, (plan on spending an afternoon in the kitchen), though not terribly fussy, and I'm guessing that after making it a few times one will learn one's own little short cuts (forgive me, Julia) to make it easier and more worthwhile. Plus, it's one of those dishes you can make entirely the day before and just reheat, and there's always something to be said for that. (In fact, it's actually better the second day after the flavors have melded and the beef has mulled overnight in the rich sauce.)

One important note; the recipe calls for a chunk of bacon cut into sticks. It is worth it to try and find fresh, uncured bacon, which isn't as difficult as it may seem. Most any good butcher or meat market will have it. If you end up using cured bacon, it will need to be blanched (see recipe), but will work fine. It's just an extra step that's good to avoid if possible.

That all being said, I still think that Julie chick from the movie is bat-shit crazy,
obsessive compulsive at the very least, either that or she's lying like a dog. 524 recipes in 365 days in a 900 square foot apartment with a husband, three cats and "something" named Buffy, (according to her blog)? Give me a break. And that husband of hers? He's not a saint, he's a major enabler. I mean seriously, I live in a 1700 square foot apartment with just two cats and a husband, (no Buffy), and it's all I can do to make Beouf Bourguignon on a quiet Sunday afternoon when the Mr. is out. And guess what? We liked it so much I may just do it again.

JULIA CHILD’S BOEUF BOURGUIGNON
(Makes 6 servings)

8-ounce chunk bacon (fresh, uncured and unsmoked, if you can find it)
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 large carrot, sliced
1 large onion, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups full-bodied red wine, such as a Beaujolais, Burgundy or Chianti
3 cups brown beef stock (I used canned beef bouillon)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, mashed through a garlic press
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf, crumbled

25 small white onions
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup of brown beef stock or red wine
Herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, 1/2 bay leaf, 1/4 teaspoon thyme tied in cheese cloth
Salt & pepper to taste

1 pound fresh mushrooms - whole if small, otherwise cut into halves or quarters
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil

Remove the rind and cut bacon into sticks 1/4 inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long. If using cured bacon, simmer the bacon sticks and rind for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 cups water. Drain and pat dry. This is called blanching the bacon, assuring that the smoked flavor of cured bacon doesn't overwhelm the other, subtler flavors in the dish. Also, if you are using cured bacon you may need to add a little oil for sauteing the meat as blanching cooks some of the fat out of the bacon.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Saute the bacon in 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large oven proof, flameproof casserole (9 to 10- inches) for 2 to 5 minutes until lightly browned. Remove to a side dish. Reheat the fat until it is almost smoking.

Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Saute a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Set aside with the bacon.

Brown the sliced carrot and onion in the same fat. Drain. Pour out fat.

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly with the flour. Set casserole, uncovered, in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat again and return to over for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and coats the meat with a light crust.) remove casserole and turn oven down to 325 degrees.

Add carrot and onions to casserole. Stir in the wine and beef stock. Add tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover casserole and set in lower third of the 325 degree oven. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours until the meat is easily pierced by a fork. Do not overcook.

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms.

Peel the onions. (If you want to use frozen onions, fine by me. Peeling them is a pain and Julia will never know.) Heat 1 1/2 tablespoon butter and 1 1/2 tablespoon oil in a 9 to 10-inch skillet until bubbling. Add onions and saute over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling them about so they brown as evenly as possible. Pour in beef broth or wine, add herb bouquet, and simmer slowly for 40 minutes until the onions are tender but retain their shape and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove herb bouquet and set onions aside.
(Is it just me, or do these look like eyeballs rolling around in the pan?)

Trim and slice mushrooms. Place 9 to 10-inch skillet over high heat with 4 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil. As soon as the foam has begun to subside, add mushrooms. Toss and shake the pan for 4 to 5 minutes. (During the saute the mushrooms will absorb the fat, but you don't need to add more.) Continue to saute until mushrooms are lightly browned. Remove from heat and set aside.

When the beef is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a large saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.
Skim the fat off the sauce in the saucepan. Simmer sauce for a few minutes until thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce. If it is too thin, boil it down to the desired consistency. If too thick, add a little wine or beef stock. Taste and adjust seasonings. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. (NOTE: I'm not altogether sure this sieving and simmering step is absolutely necessary. My sauce was perfectly seasoned, coated a spoon and didn't need boiling down right, out of the pot. Still, Julia said to do it, so I did.)

Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Bon appetit!

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